Midnite's 'Ras For A Reason': I have never heard the song anywhere else than at home on my own stereo, or those few times I played it myself on a sound system. It's my favorite Midnite tune, a song that moved me to tears when I first heard it in 2003. And now it resounds here, on our arrival in The Lion House, on the half open terrace that serves as a bar, lounge and restaurant. The view is overwhelming, a typical Jamaican landscape of hills and valleys with wild, sprawling vegetation, and here and there a house or a small community. On the left the foothills of Ocho Rios, and behind it the sea, endlessly far. A pleasant breeze blows over the terrace. We are a few hundred meters above sea level and the temperature here is a lot more bearable than below in the city. It's also wonderfully quiet here compared to Ochi, where almost every day one or two cruise ships moor and thousands of day-trippers flood the already busy city. It took us about half an hour, on the constantly rising Breadnut Hill, to escape the hustle and bustle. If you don't have a car of your own, it's best to stay here for a few days, unless you don't mind the taxi fares. A single ride costs 45 US dollars, the currency used in this tourist region that is at least as common as the Jamaican dollar. The so called route taxis that you see everywhere in Jamaica are much cheaper: 120 JA or US dollar.
"This place is regularly visited by resort refugees," says Oli (Oliver), the Swiss-British co-manager of The Lion House. The beautiful house has been built by local rastaman Mahlon and his wife Lizzie. "I'm talking about people who have been staying in a resort in Ochi for a few days now but can't stand it no longer. They flee their prison and here they find the peace and the vibes that they lack over there, for a couple of hours at least."
That's exactly what we're looking for too here, after a few busy days in Kingston, a long drive through St. Thomas, around the entire eastern island, and a short stay in Port Antonio. No beach, no arts & crafts, no nightlife, but a beautiful location, bright green, red and yellow colors and the lion of Judah in all its glory, also on the license plate of Mahlon's 4x4. The rooms have names like Roots, Natural Mystic, Zen or Africa. We sleep in Morning Light, a room at the back of the building where the sun comes knocking early in the morning, with a gigantic terrace and a view as impressive as on the communal terrace one floor higher. No TV (why?), nice bathroom. This is not a basic sleeping place but there's already enough of them in Jamaica. We appreciate our comfort, but without unnecessary luxury and the necessary limitations of large hotels and resorts. And without the guests of course, totally different people than we, with very different wishes and expectations.
In the culinary field, for example. The food in The Lion House, in the morning and in the evening, is strictly vegan and strictly organic. Ackee (without salt fish but equally tasty), callaloo, avocado, rice with beans, sweet potato, plantain, cabbage, okra, and at breakfast of course a large plate of fresh fruit, pineapple, mango, banana, papaya, guava... All homegrown or bought locally. On the side bami or festival. The best Jamaica has to offer, lovingly prepared and served. Not basic either, I know, but sustainable tourism, rooted in the local community. Ital vital.
Don't need anything more here. I put myself in a chair on the terrace with a book at hand but the view and especially the music (a balanced selection of old and recent roots, of big and small names) are enough to bring me into a state of complete satisfaction. That, and a tasty spliff of course. Smoking was allowed in most other guesthouses where we stayed but nowhere did I feel more at ease than in The Lion House, where it just seems to belong.
I hear from Oli that guests have often come to rest in that seat. Just sit there for four days and chill. A totally overheated American even stayed for three weeks. Sounds perfectly acceptable for me.
One of the books in the small house library is a copy of 'The Promised Key', Leonard 'The First Rasta' Howells book (would anyone have read that here?) and the promising 'Bangarang At Carnival', subtitle: 'Sex And Scandal Climax In The Heat Of Jamaica's Carnival'. I read the trashy novel in a couple of hours. It's a must for anyone who wants to get to know another side of this country, and especially a different kind of people than rasta's, sufferers and rude boys.
By the way: the host of the bar in Lion House is I-Sure, a grandson of Prof-I, the nyahbinghi warrior who lives nearby. Another reason why this is, at this moment, the ideal place for us to stay. Keep it in the rasta family.
The next day Oli invites me for a walk through the valley behind Lion House. Together with Keemo, Sam and Michael he carved a path in the jungle, following the Swiss model, zigzagging and with rocky reinforcements, first down, then steeply up. It must have been a hell of a job, and that becomes clear when we meet Keemo halfway through, who is busy clearing a new path. Behind him a wall of impenetrable green looms up.
It's a tough hike but we're rewarded with some beautiful views and the proximity of ancient trees and plants. And continue our reasoning from the night before, two white Europeans who carry reggae and Rastafari in their hearts, and try to live by it. That we seem to have a few mutual acquaintances was already predestined when we arrived here and I heard Midnite.
In the afternoon a few resort refugees actually arrive. An American couple has hired a driver and comes to take a look at the guesthouse on Booking.com that gets such nice reviews (which also lured us here.) They drink a Red Stripe, take a few pictures and leave again. They could have used some more rest.
To be clear: we paid for our stay in Lion House, and I have not made any appointments with Oli and Mahlon. It was a wonderful experience, positive vibrations all over, and I wanted to tell you about it. If you ever come near and are looking for accommodation with the blessing of Ras Tafari (and the best music on the island), Lion House is the place!
© Lion House & Jah Shakespear
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